Shepherd Islands

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May 29: Tuesday

The boat came in at 9.30pm last night! So that’s good news. We went down to see it, just down from the house and we went to go aboard. We took another canoe which was slightly smaller and lighter then the yellow one, but it started sinking and we just made it back. Then we took the other and went on board. It’s a nice boat and should be good fun.

I tried to do a drawing today of the boat but it looked second rate, I don’t think I’m cut out to draw. Today have done next to nothing, Iann’s been sick, must be from the macaroni, tomato sauce, chips and bread we had last night.

Should have received a letter or two from home but have not, don’t know why. Got some good news tonight, the Pacifique is leaving at 9am tomorrow morning, so can leave early and see things. I have packed my pack. Played some table tennis in the afternoon, good change.
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May 30: Wednesday

Got up early to get ready cause the boat will leave at 9am. We had time to go to Vila for the last time and luckily received a letter from home just in time. Everyone started to get ready to put luggage on board, people having been coming and coming, will be standing room only. Most should get off today and tomorrow. It’s about 12 o’clock now I think. Good to be going but will see Vila again later.

Actually we left at 11.40am. Sad to leave good friends behind but must go. It felt lovely sitting on top of the boat going through Vila harbour. Everyone waves from the shore. Vila looked really clean and nice, the water beautiful. It seemed real slow to get out of the harbour and when we did the water was quite choppy. We were always in sight of land but the boat rolled around. We had some food, maybe a bit too much I feel.

The boat is going up the east coast about one mile off shore. Because of this the water is calm comparatively and so the boat does not rock at all. I’m staying at the back. I felt drowsy for awhile but now I am writing while I have a chance. It will be rough soon when we leave the island.

Sid has already caught a fish, a mean looking silver fish about two feet long. Vicious teeth but nice fish, sleek. We are going past Hat island, it looks like a hat. A few people just saw a dolphin swim with the boat. We can already see the Shepherd Islands on the horizon though they are a long way off. It’s 2pm and we are going past some small islands. Sid caught another Sawfish, slightly bigger. I saw a flying fish, really amazing. Lovely just to sit on the roof talking to people. Everything is beautiful so far.

You see quite a few flying fish, we are still following Efate, can see many islands ahead. Sid caught a big Sawfish about four feet long, great excitement. Sunny weather. Sailing was easy and always nice islands to see. We are later then expect so are staying at Nguna (“Noona”) for the night then move on early tomorrow. We are anchouring off a nice beach which is where the village is situated. It is the island with the extinct volcano. Beautiful deep aquamarine coloured water. The dingy has gone to shore to see if the women and children can sleep on land tonight, hopefully we will go ashore at least for awhile. The village is right on the beach with the volcano behind it, it faces west. It’s covered with beautiful tall trees, except the top of the volcano. The name of the village is U-tun-lang.

The passengers include numerous small children, chooks and a cat named Tommy. We, that is myself, Sid and Pastor Simon went ashore but too dark to see much, though it did look very nice, thatched houses, trees, some houses were triangle shaped, good for hurricanes they say. The beach was made of coral bits, no sand. This years price for Copra 29000F per ton. Plenty of coral right up to the shore.

Mrs Chitty, Sid’s wife radioed through, said that there was a letter from mum, just missed it! The sun set behind clouds so I missed my first sunset at sea. For tea we had fried eggs on toast which I made, also the captain of the boat cooked up some of the fish, beautiful in curry. Sid is trying to catch a fish, he really likes fishing. Pastor Simon is such a nice guy and can he laugh. It’s nice and peaceful on the boat now, relaxing, very dark out to sea. I have the moon outside my cabin window, it’s just a thin hanging crescent. The boat only rocks slightly so should sleep. I’m up top, Pastor Simon and Sid below. It has been a great day.
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May 31: Thursday

It’s 5.20am. At 3.15am they sounded the shell horn they have to tell the people on shore to get ready to come aboard. They have raised the lifeboat and will be away soon. I didn’t sleep much because of snoring or the roll of the boat. It was warm enough without using my blanket.

We are travelling north, west of Nguna, Emao island can be seen behind it. The water was fairly rough, I sat on the roof, it was good up there. My stomach wasn’t feeling too good and I chucked up twice though I felt just fine.

We reached Mataso island at 7.15am. It is two islands, but one, they are joined by a small area of sand. There are only two villages on it. It’ll be hard to land because of the waves, some people get off here. Weather is overcast.

Next stop Buninga. Sicked up for the sixth time. Water rough, caught two fish. This island has almost no shore, one main beach which is made of large stones, volcanic and there is ash soil as well. Many boys in canoes came out, two girls swam out. It was good to touch soil again. We had to climb up to the village along a bush track. Village was quiet and really good to be in. Chooks and dogs eat anything they can find. Tommy will live here. Most of the trees bare some kind of fruit. The village has hedges, unexpected. It is in three stages, each separate from the other, higher as they go.

While waiting for the others I walked over to a family cooking and grating coconuts. The older lady gave me two bananas and showed me the correct way to peel them, around and down. I could manage one and a half but then the old man came over with a plate and fork with 5 hunks of yam on it, very nice but I could not eat all that. Then he came over with a coconut drink. Other people gave us some yams which we took to the boat. Had to say goodbye to these lovely people of course! A lot of the buildings are made with wild cane, the walls that is. The roofs made of coconut leaves are up to fifteen inches thick.

Tongoa next stop, it’s not too far away and can see it plainly, and Epi behind it. Calm water and nice sailing, they caught one fish as before and two tuna, one a good size. This island has one beach of black sand, the beach we embarked at was the same round (usually black) stones as on Buninga. I went ashore so I can sleep in the village, took a few basics. Six of us went ashore including a guy I was talking to on the boat, I thought he was one of the crew but he wasn’t. He’s been to New Zealand, ended up his wife and baby son are here in the village.

We walked up a dirt track to get to the village perched high on a hill overlooking Epi and plenty of ocean. He pointed out the different trees bearing food. We met a few guys one of them the chief, I don’t think he is sure about me but he is friendly. This village is not like the last which was ‘real’, this one is made mostly of concrete or steel buildings, it slopes slightly up and we’re near the very top. I had a shower in the longhaus, a thatched ‘shed’? With a raised wooden floor and a big bucket of water. I was a bit too tall for it but managed. A real experience, they gave me a towel. You are always looked after so well. Have a bed to sleep in! No rolling around. A bunch of children are enthusiastically singing chorus’s in the village somewhere. Wonder what’s for tea? Did I mention the big volcanic plug sticking out of the ocean at Mataso? Straight up, birds everywhere, caught two fish here.

I have now seen all of the Shepherd group of islands. Stopped at four but could see all the others, something few whites have done.

Went to the church where they were singing from memory. Not many white guys come up here (especially dressed sloppy like me) so they all looked shy. You always shake everyone’s (adults) hands. I’m still rocking with the boat, I really enjoyed it and more to come and felt fine except my stomach is just too suburban and needs to toughen up. No sunset again, been cloudy but pleasant most of the day.

Tonight I wrote by the light of a lonely kerosene lantern, should eat soon I hope, I’m hungry. Tea with the chief, great slabs of Manioc (laplap) with a thin layer of spinach (?) and some chicken. And a couple of cups of tea that was nothing more then tube carnation milk, maybe some water! Lovely.

To these people this is the world, these small villages on small islands of a small country!
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June 1: Friday

Slept so well last night and really needed it and feel good today. Breakfast with the chief, something like picklets or pancakes, but chewy and plain with of course the ‘heated milk’. One guy came up with a large plate of rice and fish, looked lovely but I couldn’t eat that as well. Walked down to the boat with two boys, they had a mean and powerful slingshot and were after birds to eat, they didn’t get one but came mighty close. Went on the boat for awhile, it’s raining about 8am I think.

It was a long day on Tongoa, a lot of moving around in the village. I went ashore again, they were unloading bags of cement, it was really pouring but good fun sheltering in a shed with all the bags of copra, even the chief was with us. He’s a pretty stern sort of person but does his job well. Anyway, someone cut down some large leaves which we used as umbrellas, native style! We trudged up the hill with them. We sort of hung around the village seeing different parts. The best part was a double wedding they held in the church. Very much a strange event compared to ours. Nothing much was arranged beforehand, anyone could come to the church and there wasn’t any fancy stuff around. The guys came in and sat at the front on the right, the brides and bridesmaids on the left. They all had some powder on their necks and shoulders (custom) the guys had old baggy suits and any shirt, the girls had white on, wedding gowns but their own stuff added. Apparently they have another marriage according to custom , feasting and songs etc to all hours. A real experience.

Left for Epi about 2.15pm and arrived at about 4.30pm after easy sailing and two more tuna. Epi is large compared to the other islands but apparently few people live there. We went around to the north west corner, it has a long black beach. Very overcast and much of the island is shrouded in cloud, looks eerie.

I didn’t get off the boat, no need to. I will sleep on board, hopefully it will stay calm. The boat rocks a little but sleeping on your back helps. Tea was laplap and chicken. The locals can eat so much. That’s about it for today.
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June 2: Saturday

Quiet day today cause we stayed in one spot. Had a shave and washed my hair so I would feel good and clean. Talked to a kid named Eric, he’s been on the boat since Vila and is going to Ambrym.

The village is about one mile from the boat, the boat is anchoured opposite the school. We walked through the boys dormitory, it was like a prison camp at first sight, just a cane building on the outside and inside it was full of bunks two or three high all made of a maze of cane very close together. The floor was of cane and about two feet off the ground.

Lunch in the village, more of the same. Lovely village on level ground with plenty of different trees. Sardines everywhere in the ocean. Walked along the beach and saw a guy on a horse! A lovely sunset with a big orange sun on all these cool colours. The island has been in a white haze all day, weather clearing.
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June 3: Sunday

Sleeping on board can be good if it doesn’t roll too much. Last night it was quite warm so I didn’t use my blanket ’til in the morning. On this beach you can stand in the water and watch hundreds of sardines swim by. If they get excited they disturb the surface of the water so much it’s noisy. They have a large shell on board with a hole in it they use for calling to shore. You have to blow it so as to vibrate your lips and the sound is amplified. We are leaving for the other side of the island.

Rough seas for awhile but good for the rest of the way. Laid around on top of the boat for most of the time, nice and sunny. A school of dolphins swam around the boat. Travelled for four and a half hours and landed on the other side of Epi in a nice small harbour.

There is a volcanic island out to sea which is always in clouds and always active. The locals can’t live there anymore. Staying in a village tonight while the Pacifique goes elsewhere for a day. Coconut palms everywhere and coconuts all over the ground.

Saw a mangy old pig in the bush, it looked horrible. There was a long road to the village which is neat and large. Can’t see anyone though, a lot of flies. I have a swelling on the forearm near my left elbow. A little pus but nothing on the surface otherwise but hurts if you touch it. Never get a chance to go swimming.

They use coconut leaves to make walls and baskets etc. They weave the spines on one side together, then the other side, join them up to make a basket and split the centre stork!

These places are boring when you are alone and can’t do what you want to do. Just have to sit around until I can leave on the boat. Travelling on the rocking boat is boring now also. I want to be in the bush doing what I want to do. Two days to wait. I keep thinking of red apples. Won’t spend any money from Vila to Atchin, six days but will only pay for the boat, $10 I think. I am sitting in a chair with a back, pretty rare. Me and Pastor Simon have beds while the boys sleep on the floor, they do anyway.
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June 4: Monday

Food here is monotonous, some places have Manioc all the time, some places here eat yams all the time. Boiled yams, hard dry yams, soft yams. Maybe some rice and canned fish otherwise very little else. I can eat it but I’d hate to eat it forever.

I’ve just been singing songs with three boys here in the hut. They are on the boat also. We have little to do cause it could rain. So we sing terrible but fun, I correct them on some of the words, they don’t mind. They don’t have any games they play so I don’t know what they do. Sometime I think that life here is too simple, they don’t use much imagination or do anything different thus they limit themselves.

I’m letting the three boys read my letters, they can read english but I don’t think they ‘savvy’ much. We sang a pile of songs and ate coconuts for something to do. Ric, Joel and John. When I first got here Pastor Simon said “Oh, sorry, no orange juice”! Ha Ha. I’ve wanted ice cream all day.

These kids are fun, they comb my hair on my arms and legs a well. Discuss my sore elbow and generally fuss over me a bit. People here are quite clean, have a wash (swim) quite often. Some use baby oil! Their hair is real dense and curly. There is going to be another wedding then a feast, probably of yams and rice and chicken and fish. Hot tin milk of course!

Surprise, surprise tea wasn’t as expected. They bought some food down to us and it was beef and lap lap with some chicken. A nice change but the same lack of variety.

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June 5: Tuesday

In the morning we drove down in a Landcruiser (in the back). A nice drive on a tight twisting dirt track through dense forest. It was quite slippery at times. We are on the boat going to Lamen Bay then Ambrym. The volcanic island off the coast of Epi is very active, it’s called Lopevi island. It has a black streak from top to bottom which is a lava flow which must have happened recently. It would be a few miles across. Ambrym which has the most active volcano in the New Hebrides is quite large on the horizon, Paama is between us and Ambrym. Going into Lamen Bay (Lamen is the name of the small island at the mouth of the bay). Smooth sailing. Picked up a glass float. Malakula can be seen west of here.

Lamen Bay was very nice and had white sand beaches. Pastor Simon and Mr Chitty got off here to catch a plane back to Vila. On to Ambrym, for a short while we could see the top of Lopevi. A bunch of dolphins swam with the boat while going to Ambrym. If they wanted to breath they would go away from the boat.

The three boys have taken the rowboat to their school at Maranata, a tricky landing at a beach with some waves. The boat is heading west along the coast, the volcano is huge and well inland. Apparently it has no trees and takes a day and a half to get there. I hope to come back and try it!

We dropped off the young married couple who have been on the boat all the time I think. They live on Ambrym, I went ashore to take a photo of a shed full of statues, they sell them in Vila. The rocks here are black and so is the sand.

We’ve stopped again for fuel, Malakula is large on the western horizon. I’m sick of hearing people coughing and sniffling, you’d thick they’d be healthy. Which reminds me, the swelling on my elbow is a little better. Saw two fish splashing around on the water surface, showing a fin now and then. Looked like small sharks but not sure.

Refueled by 7pm and heading west to the middle of Malakula. I’m sleeping in the captains room tonight, letting a pile of people use the other room. Slept while we were moving but it didn’t worry me.
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June 6: Wednesday

Boat started sailing up the coast of Malakula early in the morning, it’s about 7am now. While approaching Atchin which is only one small islands amongst others yet well known, I saw a stringray about 4 feet across do a backflip out of the water, don’t know why.

Went to shore on Atchin, small island but plenty of people and many canoes. People live on Atchin and work land on Malakula. Canoes everywhere and they are good at moving them. I’m packed up ready to go though I’m going to have to lighten my load. All boats work the same, they have a basic aim like going from Vila to Santo but take some detours and pick up people and cargo as they go.

Sailed to Santo, there are many small islands around it, we went through them. Aore on the left. The water can be such a vivid aqua colour here. Santo is a dumpy town, plenty of Chinese, people are friendly but don’t look it. Weather is still overcast and raining, apparently the rainy season ends in July proper. Captain Richie took me to a mission (related to the one in Vila) and I have a room to myself downstairs. Also a shower, toilet and laundry, a good chance to put things in order.

Had a lovely Australian dinner for lunch and Australians to talk to which was good but as Mrs Townends pointed out, the blacks don’t look black after awhile. True. A guy named Frank is here, he’s Australian but has lived here for 30 years or more. He knows the place backwards, filled me in on details such as no roads on the west coast, there are still violent natives (one American was tied up), he is going to show me where the best places are. So I’ll be travelling up the east coast and back again. He said in July he’ll be going bush to photograph a tribe of nomads which have only just been discovered inland and I might be able to go. I doubt it but wouldn’t it be good. I could also go through the Banks group of islands later, I’d like to.

Got mums letter, good. Bought a few things including a machete. Will send some junk home. Hope the weather clears up, if so I’ll leave tomorrow. Had a nice dinner and cleaned myself up ready for tomorrow.

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