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JUNE 20-21. Sydney to London

Sydney at night looked good. Easy flight with legroom. No sleep but rest. Wandered KL airport for 4 hours. Improvised wash. Had shower at Columbo, yuck airport. Long flight to London over Middle East and Europe. Alana at airport to get me.

JUNE 22. London

Slept well after 50 hours of no sleep. Very warm weather. Talked with Alana and Glenn then train to Portsmouth and walked around.

JUNE 23. Orkneys

Up at 4am and ride to Kings Cross station. Trouble with ticket. 5 hours to Edinburgh. Tickets half sorted then sat in perk (bit crowded and noisy) then train to Aberdeen. Bought fruit, veg, milk, bread and dates then straight onto ferry. Felt like trip just starting when ferry moved out of harbour. Seen dolphins. Smooth sailing. Arrived 11.15pm.

JUNE 24. Rackwick

Headed off to Finstown in overcast weather that persisted all night. Cool conditions and never fully dark. Slowly got sore and sorer and rested at Finstown. Stopped 75% towards Stenness and slept in bus shelter at 1.40am. Set alarm for 5am but got up at 3am feeling good. Arrived at Stromness at 6am feeling very sore in legs and mainly feet. Hung around until 7.45am ferry to Hoy. Bought food. Short nice trip then very long and painful walk to Rackwick with last minute lift in mini van. Nice small hostel, big clean up and coffee. Walk to beach. Cooked hot meal. Lots of rest.

JUNE 25. Stronsay

9.30am bus to ferry, nice driver but hard to understand. Ferry to Stromness, bus to Kirkwall via way I walked. Ate great meat pie and went to busy supermarket. Bought metho. Looked around town mainly along one closed off street. Had to wait a few hours for ferry. Sat near pond and chatted with Old Jim then sat near ferry terminal and made coffee. Great ferry trip thru islands to Whitehall on Stronsay. Nice hostel on waterfront.

JUNE 26. Stronsay

Made some food and off for walk at 6am. Constant cold wind took time to get used to. Walked two beaches, very quiet with no people to be seen. Legs better but feet hurt when returning. Had snooze then looked around Whitehall. Early greasy dinner at cafe.

JUNE 27. Westray

Foggy morning, first ferry at 7.30am. Fog slowly cleared. Left pack at hotel, had a pie, shopped and internet. Took bus to St. Margarets Hope to kill time. Pretty little village and nice bus ride. More internet and food shopping then ferry to Westray. Bus to hostel. Stunning location and great facilities.

JUNE 28. Westray

Slept in a bit due to heavy fog. Walked down to town and decided to play golf. The course was as rough as could be but a fun experience. Greens were fenced off to keep rabbits out. Back at hostel weather seemed to clear so did cliffwalk north to lighthouse. Stunning scenery. Partly foggy on walk back along road.

JUNE 29. Westray

Up early to walk south along cliffs. OK weather that got bleaker near end. Walked along a beach then a road, hitched ride with nice old guy. Back at hostel at 10.30am. Took advantage of the washing machine and also had a snooze. Walked part way along northern cliffs, very blustery.

JUNE 30. Shetland

Brisk sweaty walk to get ferry to Papa Westray. Bleak weather with strong wind which improved slowly throughout the day. Walked most of the island and saw the few attractions. Stopped at a cafe for some lunch. Finished the island then back to Pierowall for bus to meet Kirkwall ferry. Ate haddock and chips then walked to ferry terminal. Ferry left about 11.45pm.

JULY 1. Lerwick

Thick fog throughout trip so nothing to see. Sort of slept a bit. Arrived at Lerwick at 7.30am to dull weather with some light rain. Went to hostel and info centre, sort of got organised then a hot breakfast at a cheap cafe. Lerwick is bigger then Kirkwall. Walked around a bit. Back to hostel just before more wind and rain. Most of the afternoon and evening spent chatting.

JULY 2. Unst

Up at 5am, had shower and breakfast in no hurry. Caught bus north, chatted with English guy and a local young couple who had violin cases and were going to a wedding on Unst. From bus to ferry to bus and ferry, couple played violins on last ferry. They invited me to crash the wedding and meet Carol. Gave me a lift to hostel at Uyeasound in her dad’s car. Went for a walk, quick snooze and washing. Started out a bright sunny day, overcast but OK by afternoon. Able to get a lift to the hotel where I had dinner. Went to the bar (pub) to wait for Lisa and Duncan, enjoyed some of the locals. Met up with them and went to hall for wedding reception. It was more like a woolshed dance. Live traditional music and everyone keen to dance, I did after awhile. Food and drinks taken around by volunteer waiters. Extremely good experience of a Unst wedding. Lost voice from lots of talking in noisy environment. Most people been to Australia or have relatives there. Finished after 3am and after ride to hostel in bleak conditions had a shower and into bed at 4.30am.

JULY 3. Unst

Up about 9am, felt OK and improved quickly. Hitched with Swedish girl to north of island to only shop open on Sunday. People in the car were at the wedding. Looked around. Hitched back via hotel. Did more washing. Sunny day but strong winds.

JULY 4. Fetlar

Up at 7am, walk to ferry with a ride in a bus. Had to wait 2 hours. Very sunny in the morning, slow change in the weather but not bad. Got ride with postman to shop then walked to Bod which was closed. Had to walk almost back to the shop and got help from the school teacher to get inside. Walked out to ‘The Haa of Funzie’ along cliffs to ‘The Snap’ and continued back to Bod. Attacked by grey birds who swooped really close and always sneak up from behind. Filmed ‘Red Necked Phalarope’ which is a rare bird (but not shy!).

JULY 5. Lerwick

Up too early again at 6am. Rained throughout the night but stopped in the morning. Waited around before walking to shop to wait for postman but he timed it to meet the ferry. Across the other side stopped at cafe and found out there was no bus for hours but hitched a ride with guy off next ferry which came from Unst. I recognised him from the island. Got ride right through to Lerwick. Did a few things including a big hot lunch, walked around and sat near waterfront. Many hours to kill until 1am ferry. Met up with English couple and went to hostel to kill time and had a shower.

JULY 6. Torshavn

On ferry about 2am, found cbin but moved to an empty one. Slept OKish. Up at 10am. Mainly chatted, soon into Torshavn. Very good weather. Some time getting info and found hostel downtown. Bit of a dump but nice enough. Went to supermarket.

JULY 7. Gjogv

Confused morning because of a ferry strike. Long walk to buy metho. Decided to go to Gjogv to start trip. Got on bus just before it left, nice change. Nice drive out to Oyrarbakki, bus was expensive so decided to hitch. Van pulled over to offer me a lift as I was walking up hill to a turn-off. From there I got a ride first up with Icelander who took me to Edi. Decided to walk, bit hard and bleak but stunning views including seastacks Risin and Kellingin. Felt fit even though pushed. Persisted to the pass (392) where I ate. Started down hill and first car to pass was the Icelander again who took me to Gjogv. Very nice hostel/hotel. Great cliffwalk and amazing views. Feels go to be starting Faroes travel.

JULY 8. Klaksvik

Small walk to waterfront, breakfast at 8am then slowly up hill. Instant lift with schoolteacher who took me to Funningsfjordur via Funningur. Walked along road (7km) to Elduvik, amazing scenery. At Elduvik stopped at ‘cafe’/BB and had fizzy drink while chatting in the kitchen. Walked steep coastal track and over slight pass to Oyndarfjordur. Saw rocking stone which wasn’t moving. Declined to walk over pass to Fuglafjordur so hitched there. Found out no campground or ferry so hitched with Danish traveller then guy to Leirvik. Had a hamburger, chips and coke for lunch then ferry to Klaksvik via Sydradalur. Shopped then eventually found hostel. Nice room to myself. Long sweaty day, tired but enjoyed it all. Weather good so far. )Good weather is anything without rain).

JULY 9. Klaksvik

Decided I needed a rest day which was a good idea. Good sleep. Walked along peninsula and sat around. Practiced GPS. Slowly turned into a sunny day, still sunny at 7pm. Sunrise is at 3.30am I read. Shopped again and got better organised. Spent time down on waterfront. Locals are very proud of their houses and gardens and take good care of them. Lots of summertime renovations happening.

JULY 10. Fugloy

Up at 6am and up to road to hitch. Ride thruough first tunnel and could look down at Arnafjordur. Then ride to Hvannasund. Lovely sunny day. Waited an hour for ferry built in 1959, quite a few tourists on board. 2 of them put on every bit of bad weather gear they had! Stunning scenery, calm seas. Did not stop at Svinoy and only one attempt to stop at Kirkja in what seemed like good conditions. Got off at Hattarvik and walked up road and over low pass and set up camp. Weather still OK. Walked up most of the way up Eystfelli and then some way west. Weather closed in with strongish gusty wind, driving mist and very few raindrops (sofar). Bit hard to cook, made quick boiled meal of noodles, meat, onion and capsicum with some spices. Tent bound.

JULY 11. Klaksvik

Woke to sunshine and some wind. Plenty of time to pack and walk down to waterfront. Sat in sun and saw almost no one in 2 hours, found out only about 10 people live here. Apprehensive as to whether ferry would come. It did but I had to get a lift over to Kirkja with wharf guy. Possibly one of the most amazing roads in the world with a view of Svinoy that made me gasp when we came over and around the top point of the road. Watched ferry struggle with tidal flow to get to the wharf. All loaded quickly. Great ride back on ferry with sunshine and squally winds. Got wet a few times. Hitched up to Vidareidi and put up the tent but the wind was too strong so I packed up and hitched back to Klaksvik. Did washing and had a snooze.

JULY 12. Klaksvik

Woke to a little rain and no motivation so slept to almost 10am. Walked up local ‘hill’ Klakkur (413m) to see great scenery. Windy at times but not as bad as yesterday. Had 1 hour on internet for free at the library. Shopped as usual. Got back in better mood. Fixed reading glasses with toothpick!

JULY 13. Torshavn

Up early and walked out to Haraldssund. Weather turned from grey to dark grey and wind howled again. After sheltering in a shed for awhile I retreated back to Klaksvik, got excess baggage, bought a coke and took ferry to Leirvik. Got a ride with a quiet guy right to Torshavn. In hostel, did some bits and peices and chatted with a British guy in a cafe. Supposedly better weather on Friday.

JULY 14. Nolsoy

Woke up to good day, some sun but still heavy clouds around. Went to Nolsoy and walked around easy end of the island. Far side of island attractive. Weather went bad as usual to light rain and fog. Long wait for the return ferry.

JULY 15. Mykines

Walked out of Torshavn about 7.45am. One lift all the way to the ferry wharf. Chatted with two ferry operators. Could not get on because of overbooking. Walked up to Bolaflottur (390m). Bombed by birds again. Good sunny day and brilliant views up and down cliffs, islands in the distance a bit hazy. One hour ferry ride to Mykines, went past seastacks Drangarnir and my favourite island Tindholmur. Very strange island. Sea developed a slow lumpy swell further out. Docked in small cove with nesting seabirds on its walls. Went to hostel and got small loft-like room. Ate hot chips with sauce then out walking to bridge where island is split. Thousands of Puffins including dead chicks.

JULY 16. Torshavn

Up early to fog so slept a bit more. Breakfast provided by accommodation. Chatted for awhile. Went to the dock early with a little drizzle. Boat trip fun in a slightly rough sea but no views. Seen a bigger seabird eating at a dead puffin in the water. 3 quick rides back to Torshavn to start again. Downlaoded memory card.

JULY 17. Oravik

Another overcast, misty, still morning with tiny bits of drizzle. Got onto ferry well before it left and sat in lounge area for a good part of the trip to Suduroy. Calm seas, some areas of cloud dark grey and very low. Saw all islands some better than others. Uneventful trip to (Drenles?) then one sort hitch to Oravik. Hostel a part of a small hotel. Had OK pizza for lunch then a snooze as I felt tired. Have a nice enough hostel to myself. Some bursts of sunshine but mostly foggy. Went for a short walk.

JULY 18. Oravik

Woke early but slept more until sun came out. Ended up being best day so far throughout. Hitched to Vagur and looked at shoreline at Vagseidi. Then to Lopra where I walked up old road then to coast at Lopransholmur. Then to Sumba which was a nice town in a nice setting. Walked to Akraberg. Hitched back to Oravik by 2.30pm.

JULY 19. Oravik

Slept in again until fog lifted. Another sunny day with fairly clear skies. Walked up to pass (244) to great overview of Famjin. Then to pass (near Oyrnaskard) to great overview of Tvoroyri and to northern islands. Walked down to Trongisvagur and hitched back with a lady and her daugther. Lazy afternoon.

JULY 20. Torshavn

One hitch into town then walked to helipad, left pack and walked to headland. Back at the helipad I found out the helicopter not operating. Managed to fill in 4 hours doing nearly nothing until ferry came. Foggy back to Torshavn. Wasted day.

JULY 21. Midvagur

After poor sleep due to construction work was glad to leave Torshavn after going to the bank and library. Only needed one ride to get to hostel. Walked into town to buy food. Little acheived but good to move on. Great views of Koltur and other island. Went from almost raining to bright warm day. Weather looked great at 9.30pm.

JULY 22. Midvagur

Walked through Midvagur and down to ‘exit’ of lake on warm sunny day. Climbed up Traelanipathen crossed lake in knee deep water. Lots of big tents here that locals use during summer. Walked up incline at 115 to see chasm and freestanding rock/island Geituskorardrangur. Very good scenery. Walked back to road along other side of lake into strong wind. A bit too long and tedious after awhile. Hitched to supermarket where I bought new reading glasses (!). Day ended cloudy but nice.

JULY 23. Midvagur

Hitched up to Vatnsoyrarthen then walked to Fjallavatn lake. Watched locals herding and shearing sheep. Went to coast at Vidvik, amazing views as usual. Swooped by large grey seabirds. Tiring walk back, old age. Hitched back. Good weather all day with some wind.

JULY 24. Midvagur

Cloudy still morning without fog. Hitched ride with stewardess to airport then walked down to ferry. Air was cold. Ferry went along other side of Tindholmur saw another boat go through the arch of Drangarnir. Good conditions out to Mykines and the trip seemed much quicker. Ran up stairs to buy some hot chips and a coke. Very quick look around then ran to get helicopter. I was the only passenger. Amazing ride in good conditions. Over Dunnesdrangue on coast of Vagur to airport. Laughed and cheered for a long time afterwards. Hitched back with a fat wheezy heavy smoker (but a nice guy). HAd snooze then walked down to Sandavagur to buy milk. Sunny all day.

JULY 25. Midvagur

Tried to hitch out of town but gave up as I could not be bothered. Feel satisfied with my time here and ready to move on. Walked around headland otherwise a lazy day. Very good weather.

JULY 26. Torshavn

Left in no hurry around 9.30am. Went to bus stop on edge of town and got one lift to Torshavn with a nice guy. Shopped, got organised and picked up parcel from post office.

JULY 27. Torshavn

Up at 6am for 7am bus to Gam—– to get ferry across to Sandoy. Nice weather and good views of other islands. Came back on same ferry then walked to Kirk—– where there is the ruins of an old church. Caught bus back to Torshavn where I did the usual stuff and phoned mum and Mechelle. Hung around until I could get onto ferry at 5pm. Very windy outside on ferry. Went north from Torshavn and between islands passing Leirvik and Gjogv. Dramatic shoreline and cliffs at extreme north. Uneventful passage in calm seas, some whale blowing at a distance for awhile. Slept fairly well.

JULY 28. Iceland

Up at 6am. Iceland in view, cloudy morning. Coatline got better as we got closer. Not too windy and sunny until late afternoon. Got info then to campground that was full but emptied as everyone went on ferry. Dragged picnic table to near tent. Did my usual research of local supermarket and looked around town a few times. Worked out a general itinerary. Told hitching is good.

JULY 29. Myvatn

Up early, walked to edge of town. Too early for much traffic but got a ride to Egilsstadir with three Polish guys. Dropped off near edge of town but after a few hours could not get a ride (worked out later that tourists don’t pick up hitch-hikers and no locals go far because there is nowhere to go). Gave up and walked into town to the bus stop. Ate and made coffee. Onto near full bus for the two and a half hour trip to Myvatn. Expensive! Interesting scenery. Pitched tent in nice campground on lakeside. Bit touristy here. Good weather. Second tear in tent.

JULY 30. Myvatn

Up just after 5am. Cool morning turned into hottish bright day. Walked along road to see an area called Dimmuborgir which has all lava stuff. Then to Hverfjall at volcanic cone (tephra crater) climbed to top and walked three quarters the way around. Then back via Grjatagja sort of a crack in the ground. Relaoctaed tent to better position.

JULY 31. Myvatn

Slept in as long as I could til 6.45am. Stalled for awhile then went up on the main road with a sign saying Dettifoss 500Kr and a 500 Kroner note waving about. Got a ride with young Austrian couple who really didn’t care about the money but gave it anyway. Went to Dettifoss (waterfall) an rougher 4WD road. Very aggressive waterfall. Ended up going with them all day up north then back down other side of river and falls. Moonscape at times this area. Back at camp at 5pm. Sunny all day windy in the arvo some rain around. May get some of it. Yes!

AUGUST 1. Myvatn

Pretty much a deliberate wasted day though did some needed organising and a couple of short walks.

AUGUST 2. Egilsstadir

Started hitching (with 1500Kr bribe) at about 9.30am and finally got a ride at 1.30pm I think. Bit of a worry but relieved finally when ride turned up. No money exchanged. Nice young girl, chatted a lot. Possibly my last ever hitch while travelling. Into campsite. Researched ideas to fix or compensate problems with tent.

AUGUST 3. Egilsstadir

Slept well and woke up later then usual at 6.30am but stayed in bed until 7.30am. Went to airport to confirm flight. Looked into buying cheap tent or plastic to make cover, both poor options. Found 2m x 4m sheet of clear plastic, cleaned it up and made ‘raincoat’ for tent. It rained on and off all day. Had cheeseburger and chips for lunch. Internet at library.

AUGUST 4. Egilsstadir

Slept in until 7.30pm, requires effort to do it! Went for a walk then sat in info centre drawing up sudokus. Met Aust guy again who was killing time waiting for a bus so we sat in diner talking for ages. Did a bit of shopping to spend last coins. Bleak all day with chilling wind.

AUGUST 5. Greenland

Up far too early at 5am (but wide awake) to pack up. Fitted everything into pack except sleeping bag. Walked to airport and got there an hour and a half before it opened. Flight was good in a twin engine turbo prop plane but little scenery due to cloud. Sunny in Reykjavik, ate hamburger and chips when suddenly starving. Talked to Greenland girl about cameras ended up sitting with her and her family on plane. Small 4 engine jet to Greenland.

Left at least 30 minutes late. Iceland’s coast looked good. Fair bit of cloud or whiteout but saw inland Greenland which was amazing. Thousand times more happy than expect to be in Greenland again. Very windy. Ferry cancelled and hard to get organised but it worked out. Stayed in hostel with group of Spanish, three Australians and two New Zealanders. Good to chat. Washing dried quickly in the strong wind.

AUGUST 6. Narsarsuaq

Light sleep with lots of dreaming. Just as windy which possibly stops me getting out of here. Did the walk to the glacier again. Longer then I remembered but still the same. Endless strong wind though it is dry and not cold. Tired on return but no lasting effects. 3 lamb chops for dinner.

AUGUST 7. Tasiussaq

Up early to calm day. Walked to waterfront fot 9am boat across to Qassiarsuk. Nice old fishing boat skippered by nuggety old Inuit man. Left some excess food at hostel and walked over to Tassiussaq then on to a spot with a view of the icecap, glacier and fjord full of ice. Too much to describe in words. Almost 4 hours of walking. Feel pretty good afterwards.

AUGUST 8. Qassiarsuk

Woke to cold morning, slight wind. Turned into warm sunny day, hot when walking. Walked slower to get back to Qassiarsuk. Bought coke and waited for ferry that left Narsarsuaq and went south though supposed to come here. Stayed at grubby hostel.

AUGUST 9. Qassiursuk

Slept in til 8.30am. Sorted out ferry problems and shopped. Walked up coast about 1 hour to river and fished at waterfall. Caught 8 fish in 18 casts of lure. Walked short way up river then up higher and overland to Qassiursuk. Big pasta dinner. Overcast with some drizzle and rain.

AUGUST 10. Qaqortok

Easy morning then met ferry on its first call and found out I was only on the standby list. Aweful day trying to sort it out and get on ferry though no one could gaurantee anything. Could have been third ferry missed. Luckily got on. Long ride back to Qaqortok, gloomy weather and some light rain. Stayed out on deck for most of trip, a lot looked familiar. Nice Danish couple gave me the key to their house which I stayed at. Cooked dinner first, sitting on their good lounge felt nice!

AUGUST 11. Qaqortok

Slept very well. Small breakfast and did some washing. Made 3 or 4 trips to town to get various things done. Met the girl from the airplane, she was doing some tourguide work for groups from one of two cruiseships that came in. Dreary day with some drizzle sort of gave some atmosphere to the place.

AUGUST 12. Nanortalik

Down to wharf to get ferry at 8.30am. Dull weather that got bleack and rainy through day but great for atmosphere. Great scenery sailing down coast wandering through small islands to avoid the open sea. Seen a few whales and locals in their small boats. Stopped at Alluitsup Paa for an hour then Ammassavik. Rode in ute at Narnortalik to hostel same one as last time. Quaint little wooden place, very cosy with six of us in it. Warm with the fire going.

AUGUST 13. Narnortalik

Up early to make plans. Weather a problem again. Too expensive to do some things but worked out a schedule. Walked around town and shopped.m Wind was cold and wet today.

AUGUST 14. Narnortalik

Up early at 5.30am to get ready for trip to Aappilatoq. Boat was faster then ferry, trip was rough in open water and very cold up on top when seas were calm when travelling behind the islands. Several icebergs around. Good conditions when going up Torssukatak fjord and Aappilatoq looked great. Stopped there about 20 minutesthen back down fjord and on to Frederiksdal (Narsaq Kujalleq). Walked a bit, snoozed and played with kids there for three hours. Some weak sun in the arvo but back to drizzle in Narnortalik. Bit tired when returned, early to bed.

AUGUST 15. – River

Dreary morning with a bit of drizzle. Took pack and ‘food parcel’ down to info centre then driven to boat. Up Tasermiut fjord to be dropped off at river that Taserssuaq lake flows into fjord via. Went with two Australians. Landed on roack near beach, no jetty etc. Short walk to river then set up camp near outlet on grassy area. Hid tent behind big rock. Walked to lake and fished a lot. Weather was overcast but good. Wind died down and mountians looked great. Collected firewood and had BBQed fish and roasted potatoes for dinner, tasted wonderful. Walked after dinner. Seen Arctic Fox, also found Eskimo grave nearby and one viking ruin. Caught biggest fish yet in Greenland.

AUGUST 16. – River

Didn’t sleep so well but flet good in the morning. Ate, washed and cleaned. Seen two lots of ducks come down the river. Fished more with broken reel, some luck. Tied line around drink bottle to make hand reel, caught fish on fish and only cast. Different weather with clouds covering most peaks. Stafford made a ‘oven’ out of stones and sod. Baked best chicken ever!

AUGUST 17. – Taserssuaq

Hiked out to end of lake with Jody and Stafford and parted company. Soon saw an Arctic Fox up close and for some time afterwards with him watching me. Reasonable walking which slowly got harder with some bush bashing and endless rock and boulder hopping. Got to final bend and could not pass, backtracked and set up camp, work out next move. Turned into best weather yet good for photos of mountains. Dullish weather in late arvo but not windy.

AUGUST 18. – River

Blusterly winds with rain last night. Tent badly torn but lucky very little water got in. Little sleep. Up at 6am and packed quickly to get out, stopped on beach for coffee. Took my time getting back by noon. Weather turned bad into drizzle. Tides are extreme with very high and low. Found a lure.

AUGUST 19. – River

Light rain at night and all thruough day only easing to drizzle sometimes. Little or no wind. Different clouds again. Mountains have more snow. Slept in til 8.30am, spent all day outside in rain gear doing things slowly to kill time. 2 walks and some fishing. Clothes suffering a bit from dirtiness or dampness. Tent dry inside. Wetaher a bit worse in arvo.

AUGUST 20. – River

Managed to spend a lot of the morning inside tent, didn’t mind. Poor weather though little rain and a bit of blue sky in the arvo. Washed and dried some clothes. Washed my filthy hair. Kept myself occupied all day which was pretty good considering.

AUGUST 21. – River

Some blue sky and sun in the morning but not much. Slowly turned into a full sunny day with clouds over mountains. Filmed river, cleaned up trash. Caught fish using pink lure on line using a stick.

AUGUST 22. – Nanortalik

Up during the night for a pee, not a cloud at all and stars out, near full moon, vague Aurora (!). Nice sunny day, packed up, found lost fishing rod, filmed river. Left at 11am and walked to Tassiusaq. Hung around wharf talking with a Spanish guy. Cold due to sweat. Boat came at 5pm, nice ride back arriving at 7pm. German father and son at hostel who were good to talk with. Washing done, slept light.

AUGUST 23. – Qaqortok

Brisk morning, went to bakery then 8am ferry. Cold out on deck but became very nice day. Saw seals chasing fish. Talked a lot with nice Danish couple. Saw one whale just once near Aluitssupaa. Got to Qaqortok in time to run to camera shop (Expert) to download photos. Took 2 hours but he persisted with help of friend. Went to stay with Dr. Claus and family, met his aprents, nice time and good to be in a house.

AUGUST 24. – Igaliku

Up at 5.45am to get 6.30am ferry. Very nice morning and day. Chatted and played cards with Danish couple, talked with Austrian couple. Some icebergs near Narsaq but much less than in 1993. Walked from Itilleq to Igaliku. Good hostel with interesting owner. Walked south and saw two Arctic Foxes. Snoozed and made big dinner. Good weather again.

AUGUST 25. – Igaliku

Slept in a bit. Dull, overcast day. Got a lend of a reel, fished in river and lake. Lost two lures. Found some crystals.

AUGUST 26. – Igaliku

Lazy day with some rain and overcast. Confirmed ferry ticket, went for a walk to look for crystals. Chicken for dinner.

AUGUST 27. – Igaliku

Went for a long walk past lake and around base of mountain. Good scenery and pretty good weather.

AUGUST 28. – Igaliku

Dull again with some light rain. Did walk up behind town. Got things ready for tomorrow.

AUGUST 29. – Qingua

Got a lift with two Swiss guys to Itilleq and waited in the sun for the ferry. Clear skies all day. Got off at Qassiarsuk and bought some food. Walked north to Qingua, could not go along left side of river and back at the bridge it only crossed part of the river and river too high to cross. Camped near bridge. Used plastic as bivvy sack. Took some time to go to sleep.

AUGUST 30. – Tasiussaq

Woke to clear morning, bright and sunny all day and warm. Had frost on gear including inside plastic bivvy. Sleeping bag only a little damp. Took my time walking back along fjord and turned up river (Qordlortup Itivnera). Easy walk along a road then through a pleasant valley. Cut up a bit high then dropped into Tasiussaq bay. Tired near end, found cabin to be open and not too dirty. Had a much needed wash. Sat in sun.

AUGUST 31. – Tasiussaq

Slept in til 8.30am, very good. Made a fireplace and heated water to wash clothes. Went for walk to point of headland. Seen a large iceberg roll over. Sat in sun.

SEPTEMBER 1. – Narsarsuaq

up at 5am and on track at 5.40am. Nice morning and stayed nice all day with no wind. Good walk again and at Qassiarsuk at 8.30am. Got a ride in a small boat to Narsarsuaq. Got organised and cleaned up. Found current Newsweek to read.

SEPTEMBER 2. – Reykjavik

Slowly got ready and time for a short walk. Hung around airport til on plane. Brilliant scenery flying over southern tip of Greenland. Good flight. Walked to hostel but it was full, found a shelter in a sportsground to sleep in.Walked around and had a hamburger and chips. Slept well.

SEPTEMBER 3. – London

Up at 6.30am. Had shower at campground. Walked along foreshore to town. Looked around town including market. Nice small city.